Monday, September 10, 2007

My big fat Greek adventure









































































































































September 7, 2007
















What a brilliant journey. Before my trek up the gigantic rocks, I made 2 new friends who were on their way to the same place I was - Roxy and Simon. We walked and talked eachother uphill and into an old Greek Orthodox monastery where skirts are required to be worn by all the females. I lit a candle for the health of my family and went into the small church which was ornate with images of saints painted on gold foil. We visited one more monastery after sitting on a tall precipice and eating our bread and fruit. It is so peaceful to be above all the noises in a town and next to the sky and treetops. I can see how the monks would consider this to be a spiritual place.
















Roxy is fantastic because she's like a little forest creature that likes to go around exploring. There were many times that she would look down a hillside covered in tallgrass and say "Oooh! let's go down there!" I was little skeptical and would have rather been comfortable and stayed on the road – but every time she had a hunch about a place, it always let us to the most special, undisturbed areas. We stumbled across some cliff dwellings in the face of the rockside – so we climbed up. We timidly went inside the dark dwelling, using the LCD display of my camera to light our way. In the dark we found 2 other small rooms attached to the main one where it was obvious people had been. I do not know if the people were from ancient or modern times, but I do know that we were the only ones there at that moment. We peeked out through all the holes in the Cliffside staring out at our new front yard made of rocks covered in an ever-growing tangle of green and sky exhaling clouds from its deep lungs.
After leaving our new home and saying goodbye to a bat, we managed to find or way down the hill over ancient rocks and through a mysterious forest guarded by twisting, blackened trees – we even made a friend with a tortoise-although his name we did not catch. The town was filled with people trying to get their last taste of consumerism before it turned into Sunday. We sat, sipping coffee and tea – which is more expensive in Greece because you’re not only buying a drink – you’re renting table space. Te sun whispered to the ears of the pure clouds, leaving a vivid blush on their cheeks.
The Taverna back at home smelled of lamb nestled over the coals in the fireplace and the people were tired after their days – enjoying beer and Tsatziki. We all said our goodbyes and tomorrow morning I leave again to Athens – which is my first step to Israel.

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Kalabaka Market and a Happy Butcher






September 7, 2007

Today was the big market day and Mara and I went down to see what they had to offer. It was similar to the other markets I have seen, except there were many stands selling bras, underwear, and other clothes. I have no idea how one would purchase a bra without trying it on first, but apparently other women here in Greece have not problem with it. I bought some dried apricots and honey for my friends back in Sweden. Katerina made us some Tomato and bean soup for lunch, and we all watched 300 together on the couch. I am really excited to go take a hike tomorrow and climb up to the top of these huge rock formations to see some ancient monasteries which have been placed there thousands of years ago. Its quite amazing they hauled anything up to the top of these rocks, much less building materials. It’s a very special feeling to have these giant rocks surrounding me. Having them there brings a sense of comfort and if they were suddenly taken away I think the town would feel very exposed like its security blanket has been removed.

Kalambaka at Koka Roka





September 6, 2007

I have arrived in Kalambaka after a 5 hour train ride. What a gorgeous place. If not for Mara and Arthur’s invitation, I would have never come here and it would have been a complete shame. There are megalithic rocks surrounding the town like father figures and it feels like a tiny village although it has a population of 150,000 people. Arthur and Mara own a hotel/restaurant here and the first thing we did was eat from the restaurant – where the chef…is Arhtur's own mother (Katerina). She made lamb and rice balls in a thick lemon/chicken tasting broth and it felt so good to eat some home cooked food that I had never tasted before.

I ended up taking a nap, watching a movie on the couch and going to sleep. The pace here is a little slower and for me it’s just right. Mara is 5 months pregnant now and I like talking with her about what she’s going through. I admire Mara very much because she had listened to her heart and not her head and within this last year moved to Greece and got married to a man that she had only known for a short time.

I fell asleep looking at a small black scorpion near the ceiling and for some reason it didn’t bother me. I didn’t think of it again.

To spend the day in the night






September 5, 2007

So after leaving the cruise ship, the three of us left the ship and found a train to Athens together. We all separated in Athens, I gave them each a kiss on the cheek – and that was that…I was on my own. Now for trying to find a place to sleep. Mara had tipped me off on a place earlier on the phone – so I tried to find it – finding nothing but really awesome clothing stores which had just closed – and a sun that was setting much too quickly. I finally found a Hotel – which wanted 80 Euros for a small room, with not even a window. I tried to talk him down, I used every tactic I could think of, but he would not budge…He recommended a street to go down to find another hotel. I left saying “I’m going to tell my father about you.” I tried to find this street that the man said, but could not – then I follwed my intuition about a street and actually found the exact hotel Mara had told me about – I love when things like this happen – because it converts all of the frustration and wasted time into a reward. I got a dormitory room for 15 euros – awesome. I took a shower which I have been anticipating for 3 days and got dressed beautifully. Within 3 minutes of using my intuition and stepping not 20 meters away from the hotel, I found food better than grandmother makes and I’m sitting here now.

I’m sitting with the reflected light of a Greek church bathing my table. There are a handful of lean cats walking around sipping water from a leaky sprinkler. A bar is playing its music near by and occasionally I see a couple walk passed the street – they both look, showing interest in the restaurant – then the man takes his woman’s hand and pushes forward like a caveman through the snow – while the woman turns her head back watching the subject of her curiosity slip by.

I walked into a jewelry shop and spent a couple hours talking with the shop owner who is impassioned with stories of the past and gemology. We’re going out to Coffee now and I really enjoy his company.

Coffee turned into a apricot juice at a cool bar playing great American Indie rock (but way too loud). We then took a stroll down the street and we realized that it was 4:30 in the morning. How did time go so quickly? I told him that I have to catch a train in a few hours – we just decided to stay awake all night. He brought me to a bakery that had just baked these big ring shaped doughnuts and breads – he bought them for me for my breakfast and train ride. Then he showed me all around Athens telling me about the historical sites. By the way – Greek ruins look their best under the moonlight with the stars behind them. We walked and walked until the sun showed its face and then he drove me back to my hotel and waited for me to pack my things, then drove me to the train station. I don't think i've ever stayed awake all night like this - walking. It was a beautiful memory and I'll think of this when I think of Greece.






September 3, 2007

Today is so challenging I think maybe I’m being overly hormonal/emotional but there are many times when I almost started crying today. I traveled for 6 hours by train this morning to Bridisi Italy, when I arrived the town was dead – I guess it’s Siesta time. I was lucky to have found a restaurant – but the food was shitty. I almost cried there on the spot. Then it turns out that the ferry only leaves to Igomenitsa once a day at 7pm – which means I would arrive there at 2am. There are no hostels even listed in that city and I would be alone at night where I should not be. Called Mara – nobody home. I decided that the best thing would be for me to hop on a ferry to a different location in Greece near Athens – it would drop me off at 10:00am. That way I am getting to where I want to go (not necessarily Mara’s house) but I would also have a place to stay for the night. Maybe there is a bus going from Athens to Kalambaka or something. My only Savior was a good Gelato place. I must be gaining a lot of weight with all this gelato but it temporarily eased my stress.

Decided to explore a little bit – I feel completely unsafe in Italy – due to the men who are like annoying predators. I am unsure as to what means they will use to get what they want. A man honked at me in his car. He turned around and honked at me again – I didn’t think anything of it – Then he kept blatantly following me around stopping the car to talk with me. The Italians know about 10 words in English which gives them the perception that they have something in Common with me – and I know about 8 words in Italian – so together we can speak 18 words to each other which is enough to start a short-term relationship. Because the time did not seem privy to a short term relationship, I used the small amount of Hebrew I can speak to completely restrict communication. The poor Italian did not know what to do and he quickly lost interest. Thank God – but I still felt unsafe so I’ve hid myself well in a peaceful quiet place at the top of some steps behind a wall near some Roman columns. I will have to take a ferry to Greece in a couple hours overnight and I don’t think I even have a bed. Oh I want things to become better, please.

After 20 minutes of writing this – things indeed did get better. I met 2 Argentinean boys who speak English and are traveling on the same ferry as me. They are so cute. I feel a little selfish for taking them both for myself – but very very happy. Because they were with me it was really easy to find the ferry which is like a shitty version of a cruise ship, but I was excited because I had two cute escorts to go with. We all had payed for the cheapest fare – which means that you do not even get a proper seat or place to put your bags – but there are outdoor showers if you like. So the three of us lounged I sewed up a couple holes in my pants. The three of us fell asleep on the floor of the cinema room – where a couple dozen other people were sleeping too. It was really fun to sleep on the floor I actually slept really well –

Wasted Day (a little)

September 2, 2007

I feel ashamed because today was a little wasted. I arrived in Rome after taking the night train (which surprisingly I actually got some sleep on) – I learned my hostel is actually near a beautiful memory of mine: Ostia Antica. I had to travel for about 40 minutes outside of Rome to get there, but the Hostel is absolutely wonderful. So clean. Right next to the ocean. Free internet, free breakfast. I passed out on my bed for 4 hours and at that point I was ready to re-visit Ostia Antiga. The atmosphere even right off the metro was energetically the same as I remember it. 9 years ago my mom and I came here and felt so special in this place. Unfortunately I had slept so long earlier today that the gates had just clased. It made me feel sad because I could see the beautiful ruins behind the bars. I walked away alleviating my frustration by saying “It’s better that they were closed because it will be dark soon and I will feel unsafe.” So I traveled back to the main staion and bought my ticket for tomorrow (I have to get to Greece to meet with Mara before going to Israel.) My train ride is early at 7:35am tomorrow so I won’t get a chance to see anything here. Its ok I know that being with Mara and her husband Arthur will make up for today. I’m glad that I see the value in a day and how precious it really is. You cannot get it back.

It was completely dark by the time I got back to the hostel station and I missed my mom So I got Chinese food – Asian food reminds me of her. Even the Chinese food is better in Europe. Toorrow is another travel day – I will try to get as close to Mara as I can – I can taste the greek yogurt already. Speaking of yogurt – that was a high point of this day – I found a place selling “Frozen Yogurt” which is different than from in the States because it is literally sweetened plain yogurt that has been frozen. You choose toppings like fresh strawberries, granola, honey – I think this is the perfect treat.

Dad guess what I did











September 1, 2007

Well I must say I haven’t been doing much for the last few days. There I was sitting on the beach looking around at the fellow people…feeling restrained in my swimsuit. I finally thought “screw it” and I took my top off and closed my eyes. I could feel my heart pounding like I ran up the bleacher steps – after the initial exhilaration, I felt extremely comfortable. Its silly to wear a swimsuit top at all! – so restrictive ;) Less men look at you when you have your top off because they don’t want to be rude. Today is Sunday and most of the shops are closed. I walked along the homes in the tiny village of VilleFranche There are football games being watched behind the weathered shutters and people cooking their suppers. This is a wonderland of architectural curiosities, new color combinations, textures and character than inspired me to go on a exposition de photographie.

There were boys playing Spartans and Indians in the street and old ladies sitting and chatting about how expensive something was. I will hop on a night train to Rome this evening at 10:00pm, I am excited to be on the move again.